The Detroit Free Press says

Prepare to be pampered at Roseville steak house

Tracy Van Moorlehem
Detroit Free Press
Occasionally at the end of an evening, I reach for my coat and find that my husband is holding it open for me. It's a sublime pleasure in a harried world to allow someone else to guide my arms gently into the sleeves.

That's the image that kept coming to mind as I tried to describe what a visit to Mr. Paul's Chophouse is like. In many ways small and large, Mr. Paul's is the restaurant equivalent of a well-mannered date.

It's solicitous, anticipating needs before you know you have them. On one recent visit, we were accompanied by friends who have a small child. The waitress offered crayons and a children's menu, then thought to ask whether we'd like the child's food ahead of time so we could enjoy our own meal. A manager stopped by to talk to her. The pianist let her sit on his bench and push the keys.

It's entertaining, one of the few places in town that prepares Caesar salads, chateaubriand and flambes at your table -- and with the joy of a showman, not rote repetition.

And it's not in a hurry. You might have to wait for a table, but the wait lends enchantment as you watch other diners linger over appetizers, soup or salad, a fragrant steak or a flaming dessert. You soon find yourself doing the same.

The Roseville restaurant has been in the Gogo family since 1968. When Paul Gogo opened Mr. Paul's, dinner out was a big event, and good steak houses knew how to pamper their guests.

Now Mr. Paul's is run by three of Paul Gogo's children: sons Peter, Chris and Paul Jr. All grew up in the restaurant and learned about service by providing it.

"We always started out young, at age 13 or 14 in the kitchen, doing the dishes, working our way through the facets of the business," Peter Gogo said. "I never thought of it back then when I was young -- but I sure appreciate it right now."

Service is professional and abundant. One person brings you a beverage. Another drops off warm bread, crackers and bread sticks. Another takes your order. Someone else prepares your salad or serves your chateaubriand from a flaming plate -- all in a way that allows you to relax because you know you're in good hands.

"We are always trying to evolve with the times and keep it exciting and fresh, but we have a clientele that keeps coming to us for many years," Gogo said. "We have a lot of old standbys and staple items that have become a trademark. People count on that."

One of the highlights is the Caesar salad made at your table. The garlic is smashed in a wooden bowl, the egg whisked, the anchovies and salt carefully folded in with a fork. Then olive oil, lemon juice and Parmesan cheese are mixed in to form a fabulous, creamy concoction with just the right combination of competing flavors. It's tossed with freshly washed romaine and served on chilled plates.

            

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  Appetizers

 

* Baked Brie Cheese caramelized almond sauce, assorted fruit and fresh baked sourdough bread

14.95
* Fried Calamari with lemon caper sauce 12.95
* Steamed Mussels with white wine, garlic and lemon 12.95
* Portabella Mushroom with gulf shrimp, Chablis butter 12.95
* Escargot Bourguignon with garlic butter, and garlic toast 12.95
* Shrimp Cocktail 14.95
* Oysters Rockefeller 17.95
*  Raw Oysters on the Half Shell 13.95
   Baked French Onion 6.95
* Signature Caesar Salad served tableside add chicken 5.95 9.95
 

   Steaks and Chops

 
     
  *Char Broiled Dry Aged Rib Eye 39.95
* Chateaubriand for Two fresh vegetables, red skin potatoes 66.95
* Char Broiled Angus New York (14 oz.) 29.95
* Char Broiled Filet Mignon (9oz.)                  29.95
* Porterhouse Steak (22 oz.) 31.95
* Sliced London Broil 21.95
* Petite Filet Mignon (6 oz.) 24.95
* Broiled Pork Chops 18.95
* Roast Prime Rib of Beef (16 oz.) 27.95
* Petite Filet Mignon and Lobster Tail (6 oz. filet and 10 oz. tail) 69.95
  * Tournedos Henry IV 29.95
 
 

 
 

Additions

 
  * Gulf Shrimp or Frog Legs 10.95
  * Oscar Style 10.50
    Melted Blue Cheese 4.00
  * Béarnaise, Bordelaise, Brandy or Black Peppercorn    Sauce 3.00
 
* can be cooked to order: consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, shellfish or eggs may increase your risk of food-borne illness especially if you have a medical condition

 

 

  House Selections

 
* Bourbon Mesquite BBQ Baby Back Ribs 21.95
* Chicken and Pasta olive oil, garlic, broccoli, spinach, and mushrooms 18.95
* Chicken Piccata with artichokes, capers, white wine, and lemon 18.95
* Raspberry Chicken blue cheese, roasted pecans, raspberry sauce and steamed rice 18.95
* Provimi Veal Oscar asparagus, crab meat and béarnaise sauce 28.95
* Provimi Veal Marsala with marsala wine sauce, alfredo pasta 25.95
* Sautéed Calves Liver bacon or onions 18.95
* Skillet Seared Beef Tenderloin Tips 24.95
* Roast Half Duckling 24.95

 Seafood

 
     
* Wild Mushroom Encrusted Walleye             chablis sauce 25.95
* Sautéed Lake Perch 20.95
* Australian Lobster Tails (two 10oz.) 82.95
* Gulf Shrimp fried or broiled 19.95
* Blackened Norwegian Salmon 27.95
* Seafood Platter lobster tail, shrimp, frog legs,    calamari 59.95
* Baked Chilean Sea Bass 31.95
   Broiled Lake Superior Whitefish 18.95
* King Crab Legs (one pound) 28.95
     Frog Legs roadhouse style 18.95
     Our prices are subject to change, without notice

 

 
 

 Children's Menu

This portion of the menu is for children 12 years of age and under

  * Fresh Cut Chicken Strips with French Fries

6.95

  * Fresh Ground Hamburger with French Fries

6.95

  * Fried Shrimp with French Fries

6.95

     Pasta Marinara

6.95

 
   Compliments
     
Special Baked Potatoes 5.00
Cauliflower or Broccoli 5.00
Asparagus or Peapods 5.00
Sautéed Mushrooms 5.00
Hot Garlic Toast 2.50
  Desserts & Cafe
     
Cherries Jubilee 12.00
Assorted Pastries 8.00 to 10.00
Sanders Hot Fudge Cream Puff 10.00
Coffee or Tea 2.50
Cappuccino 5.00
Espresso 4.00
 

 

 

Another customer favorite is the chateaubriand, a large tenderloin cooked to order for two, then served at your table from a flaming tray along with grilled tomatoes and an abundance of lightly cooked and buttered vegetables in an earthy sauce made from the beef's juice.

Main dishes are served with a soup, salad or cottage cheese and choice of potato or rice. We sampled three of the house-made soups -- the French onion, navy bean and butternut squash. The French onion was overpowered by its beef broth, but the latter two were exceptional. The butternut squash was thick without being full of cream. My only complaint was that the pine nuts sprinkled atop tasted stale.

The menu is wide-ranging, usually with 10 or more daily specials plus staples like lobster tail, chicken piccata, perch and prime rib.

From the wide selection of desserts, we were especially impressed with the cherries jubilee -- pitted dark red cherries, sugar, brandy and other liquors flambeed at your table and spooned over scoops of vanilla ice cream -- and the pistachio-key lime cheesecake. Our waitress recommended this treat.