The Detroit Free Press says
Prepare to be
pampered at Roseville steak house
Detroit Free Press
Occasionally at the
end of an evening, I reach for my coat and find that my
husband is holding it open for me. It's a sublime pleasure
in a harried world to allow someone else to guide my arms
gently into the sleeves.
That's the image that kept coming to mind as I tried to
describe what a visit to Mr. Paul's Chophouse is like. In
many ways small and large, Mr. Paul's is the restaurant
equivalent of a well-mannered date.
It's solicitous, anticipating needs before you know you
have them. On one recent visit, we were accompanied by
friends who have a small child. The waitress offered
crayons and a children's menu, then thought to ask whether
we'd like the child's food ahead of time so we could enjoy
our own meal. A manager stopped by to talk to her. The
pianist let her sit on his bench and push the keys.
It's entertaining, one of the few places in town that
prepares Caesar salads, chateaubriand and flambes at your
table -- and with the joy of a showman, not rote
And it's not in a hurry. You might have to wait for a
table, but the wait lends enchantment as you watch other
diners linger over appetizers, soup or salad, a fragrant
steak or a flaming dessert. You soon find yourself doing
The Roseville restaurant has been in the Gogo family
since 1968. When Paul Gogo opened Mr. Paul's, dinner out
was a big event, and good steak houses knew how to pamper
Now Mr. Paul's is run by three of Paul Gogo's children:
sons Peter, Chris and Paul Jr.
All grew up in the restaurant and learned about service by
"We always started out young, at age 13 or 14 in the
kitchen, doing the dishes, working our way through the
facets of the business," Peter Gogo said. "I never thought
of it back then when I was young -- but I sure appreciate
it right now."
Service is professional and abundant. One person brings
you a beverage. Another drops off warm bread, crackers and
bread sticks. Another takes your order. Someone else
prepares your salad or serves your chateaubriand from a
flaming plate -- all in a way that allows you to relax
because you know you're in good hands.
"We are always trying to evolve with the times and keep
it exciting and fresh, but we have a clientele that keeps
coming to us for many years," Gogo said. "We have a lot of
old standbys and staple items that have become a
trademark. People count on that."
One of the highlights is the Caesar salad made at your
table. The garlic is smashed in a wooden bowl, the egg
whisked, the anchovies and salt carefully folded in with a
fork. Then olive oil, lemon juice and Parmesan cheese are
mixed in to form a fabulous, creamy concoction with just
the right combination of competing flavors. It's tossed
with freshly washed romaine and served on chilled plates.